The Balayage Breakdown

What is Balayage? Most clients think I'm speaking a foreign language to them when they hear this word. Well, technically I am. Balayage is a French term that translates to "to sweep". This  application technique has swept the nation the past couple of years and now is a growing trend done in salons every day. Many clients are still uniformed about balayage and how they can use it to their advantage. Knowing the difference between this technique and more traditional techniques can help help anyone figure out if balayage is right for them.

1. Balayage does NOT mean ombre 

                      Every time the word "balayage" comes out of my mouth, clients automatically assume that I am talking about Ombre and might be immediately turned off. Balayage is often associated with ombre because this is a technique that is commonly used to create the gradual effect ombre is known for. This technique can be used to create all types of variations of color. A client can have anything from the most subtle, natural looking highlights to a bright, sun kissed blonde from roots to ends. 

2. How is it done 

                     Balayage is a free-hand technique as apposed to the traditional foil patterns. Using just a brush and a paddle to apply, the product is painted on with full control by the colorist. The colorist can control how big or small any section is and can put the product wherever they choose to put it. 

3. Custom colored hair

                      Since the colorist has complete control to put the product wherever they please, this gives the advantaged to personalize anyones hair color. No two clients will ever look the same, therefore not everyones color should be done the same. Every client has a different eye color, skin tone and natural base color. Their hair color should be personalized for them from placement and tone to compliment their natural features

4. Healthier than highlights 

                       Balayage can be considered a much healthier approach than traditional highlights. Traditional highlights are done by placing hair into aluminum foil. Heat is produced inside the foil, causing the product to process more rapidly. If the hair is not checked frequently, it can be left inside the foil for to long and this can eventually cause breakage. Hair that is balayaged is left by itself with only a layer of cellophane over it. The cellophane generates very little to no heat and being that it's translucent the hair can easily be watched. 

5. Longevity 

                    The great thing about balayage is that your most likely not running to the salon every 6-8 weeks to get your roots done. Since it is often more of a natural look, the growing out process is much more forgiving then traditional highlights. Sometimes, it actually looks better the more it grows out because that harsh root line is more softer and subtle. This allows the next salon visit to be stretched out a few more weeks or even months. 

The balayage technique is used to create beautiful colors. For those who want a more natural look or just looking to try something new, this is a great thing to consider during your next appointment. 

                    

The Harry Josh Dryer

Sooner or later finally comes that time that some of us dread. Our blowdryers just don't work up to par anymore. Its one of those appliances that you just have to keep replacing eventually as time goes on. I was in denial about it for a few weeks, acting like it was totally normal that it smelled like burnt hair while it was running. I finally caved when a co-worker started using it. She turned to me and said "Missy, your blowdryer sucks, just please get a new one". The search started.

 Being in the hair industry, a high quality blow dryer was crucial. I wanted something lightweight, easily transportable and had a strong air flow. Being a Twin Turbo girl for so long, I wanted to venture out of my comfort zone and see what else was out there. I searched through different brands comparing prices, size, weight and wattage. I'm someone who is very visual, so when I came across this fun-sized, mint green blowdryer I was automatically intrigued. 

The Harry Josh Pro Tools 2000 dryer definitely had its own character from the rest of the dryers I've seen. It had a unique retro feel and didn't look like it would feel as if I was drying hair with a 10 pound weight. I read tons of positive reviews about it and even articles from other beauty bloggers giving their opinion. I read about its 9 inch cord, green energy system that reduces energy use by 70%, and its extra cold push button for setting styles. At the time of my research, I found it in a package deal that came with brushes and clips for $250 on Hairenvy.com (I think this is still being offered).  I decided to take the plunge and make the purchase. 

My blowdryer had arrived and I was so excited to try it. I pulled out the pint sized dryer and immediately plugged it in. I was pleasantly surprised with how strong and hot the airflow was for a small little gadget. I clicked on the cool shot button and the air didn't go to just room temperature, it actually got cold enough to cool down hot hair. It also had a nifty little ION button for you to decide whether you want to use the ION technology or not. The cord length was much longer then any other dryer I had owned and the weight of the dryer wasn't tiring to my arm. Luckily my mom needed her weekly blowout that night so I able to test it out right away. 

Since I've been using the same dryer for so long, it took a few minutes to really get used to a new one. I couldn't tell right away how much I loved it since I was so out of my comfort zone. After a few sections of hair I became more adapted and realized how happy I was with it. The strong hair flow made for a quick and smooth blowout, lightweight helped with handling of the tool, and the cool shot button helped with longevity of the style. All around I give this blowdryer 2 thumbs up.

The PROPER way to arrive at your color appointment

A fellow colorist had recently said something to me that opened my eyes a little more about the industry I am in. "We are not in the hair business, we are in the people business". Everyday I have the chance to study how people work and build a one-on-one connection with a complete stranger. I learn their likes, dislikes, family history, all the places they have lived, and everything else under the sun you can imagine. Each client is completely different, which makes my job that much more fun. However, I have seen one similarity between everyone of them. No one knows how to be prepared a hair appointment. 

I can't tell whether or not it's actually common knowledge on how to arrive into a salon. Maybe it's that I'm just a salon professional so I know all the proper ways and clients actually have no clue? Either way, I would like to educate everyone on what to do so you are ready for your colorist to work their magic. 

1. Someone else's sweat isn't something we want to get our hands in

                         I understand you have your workout routine and need to be in the gym at the same whatever time every single day. But please, work it around your hair appointment. It's not going to kill you if your there at 5 in the afternoon instead of 2. It's just once every few months that you have to rearrange your schedule a little bit. When you come in with a head full of sweat and tell me you didn't have time to wash it, the first thing I think is "Oh great, just what I was hoping for". It doesn't make us want to touch your head. It just turns into a chore and we have to immediately go to disinfect our hands because of the sweaty client. Please, don't be the sweaty client. 

2. Be hygienic and make sure your hair is clean

                      Please don't come in to me and say you haven't washed your hair in 4 days. Do you know how much oil collects on your roots just in 4 days? Not only is it very unappealing for us to touch, but it actually changes the way color reacts to your hair. When you have an outer layer of oil coating your hair, it can slow the processing time down and even make it difficult for color or any lightener to penetrate into your hair to begin with. It can create unexpected results which isn't great for you or your colorist. To get the most benefit out of what your paying for, show up with freshly washed hair. This will allow the colorist to properly predict what they can do for you. Those oily roots also mess with where color is placed. Oily hair falls differently then clean hair, which automatically will shift what type of sectioning or patterns your colorist is placing on your head. 

                    An oily scalp isn't the only reason you should wash your hair, product buildup is another. If you use hairsprays, mousses, gels or any other thick product that makes your hair feel like straw, please wash it out. It does not make the color application more efficient when there is a hair that is clumped up like a ball of hay from using to much hair spray or mousse. Not only will it slow the application time down, it also might be uncomfortable to you when I tug and pull to try and separate those stuck-together strands. So, for your benefit and mine, wash your hair. 

3. Do not show up with it soaking wet

                   

                  After your hair is all washed and cleaned, pick up that dryer and blowdry your hair. Not damp, not 75% dry, not mostly dry in the front and a little wet in the back, DRY. When you make an appointment with your colorist, you are not the only appointment of the day. Even though you have a special bond with them and you think you have all the time in the world to dilly dally when you get there, you don't. Colorists love spending time with there clients and getting to know them more, but unfortunately, time is of the essence. From the moment you sit down in that chair the clock is ticking until it's time for the next client to come in. When you arrive to your appointment with wet hair, that time booked only for what you requested has been disrupted. Now, your colorist must get their blowdryer out and take however many more minutes to dry your hair for you. Ten minutes as rolled by and your hair is finally dry. Unfortunately, those small ten minutes to you is a big ten minutes to your hairdressers next client, who has been waiting ten minutes past when her appointment was scheduled for because you weren't prepared for your appointment. To avoid any time management issues during your time at the salon, arrive with dry hair. 

4. Actually brush your hair

                     

                      After the experience I had with a client last week, please, I beg you, brush your hair properly. A mother brought in her 16 year old daughter to get her hair highlighted for an upcoming event. I looked at my schedule and saw I was booked the proper amount of time to give her what she wanted. My next client was due an hour after her so I had to make sure I was running on schedule. I walked over to the girl and her mother to discuss what she was looking to achieve. Halfway into the client consultation the mother had said to me that there was a small knot in the back of the girls head. The fact that she had to stop and make me aware of a "small" knot made me a little skeptical. Before we continued, I took a look through the girls hair to see what I was really getting myself into. There it was, a knot of matted, tangled, hard as a rock hair that was the size of my fist. Picture a dread-lock in a baseball form. This wasn't something a brush and some conditioner would handle. This knot was at the point of taking over 30 minutes to remove. I had explained to the mother that since the knot had to be taken out, the daughter might miss her appointment due to the time that it takes to remove something like that. Finally, halfway into her appointment, the knot was out. I still had a half hour left to do something to the girls color where it looked refreshed for her event, but not what she originally made her appointment for. If the girl was prepared and showed up with her hair tangle free, she would of been given the service she intended to have. Brush your hair. 

5. Know what you want

                    There are many times when a client comes into me and has no idea what they are looking to do. No matter how hard you try to get on the same page, everyone has different versions of what colors are what. My caramel tone and honey blonde can be totally different then what you think is it. Visuals are the biggest thing I encourage. Bring in pictures, photographs or whatever you decide to show for what you want your hair to look like. The best investment I've made this year was my Ipad. If a client comes in and is confused about what they are looking for, I just pop up Pinterest and tell them to search through different looks. Finding a common ground with your colorist is very important. We are there to make you happy and make you feel beautiful. When we know what you have in mind and are given the right tools, we can achieve whatever look you dream to have. 

I hope you take everything I've said here into consideration when you are getting ready for your hair appointment. Your time is valuable and to make sure its not wasted, prepare for your colorist properly. 

Homemade Peppermint Hot Cocoa

Novemeber 1'st isn't only the day after Halloween. It's also the day we start getting into holiday season mode. Don't get me wrong, I love Halloween. It's right up there with Christmas for me. But, the second it's over, It's spreading holiday cheer all the way. I get my ugly sweater out and DVD's of Elf and How The Grinch Stole Christmas. The temperatures outside are starting to drop down into hibernation season, which makes it perfect weather for hot cocoa. I'm someone who hates the cold and will love anything that keeps me warm. While I was in the supermarket yesterday, the shelves were stacked with all things Christmas. These items included candy canes and one of my favorites, Andes chocolates. Peppermint Hot Cocoa immediately came to mind. I'm more for homemade hot cocoa. The packaged stuff is way to watery and generic while homemade is thick and creamy. It's a dessert in itself. Today was the perfect afternoon to make it. It was windy with an uncomfortable chill in the air. Needless to say, the hot cocoa didn't last too long. I curled up on the couch with a blanket and sipped it as I watched my dad, through the window, clear the yard for our wood delivery. It made me think that this would be even better in front of our wood burning stove. I see many batches of this being made this holiday season. 

Peppermint Hot Cocoa

2 Cups of  Whole Milk

1 Tablespoon of Brown Sugar

4 oz of Bittersweet Chocolate

5 Andes Chocolates

1/8 Tsp of Cinnamon

1/4 Tsp of Vanilla 

Step 1: Pour the milk and cinnamon into a sauce pan and heat on low-medium until it comes to a slight simmer. 

Step 2: Whisk in chocolate and andes chocolates and leave for 1 min. 

Step 3: Turn of heat and whisk in cinnamon and Vanilla. Let steep for 10 minutes. 

Step 4: After 10 minute, turn heat back on until hot cocoa is fully heated. Pour into mug. 

Whipped Cream

1/2 Cup of Heavy Cream 

1 Tablespoon confectioners suger 

Step 1: With a handheld or electric mixer, mix cream until the consistency is thick. 

Step 2: Mix in confectioners sugar 

Step 3: With a piping bag, pie whipped cream on top of Hot cocoa. 

Step 4: Garnish top with crushed candy cane pieces and stick a candy cane on the side for extra peppermint flavor. 

I hope this recipe keeps you as warm as it kept me. :)

New Product Review

Bumble and Bumble is one of the most fun product lines I've worked with. Whenever they come out with new products, I'm itching to try them. A few weeks ago I noticed some new bottles on our product shelf. Ofcourse, I was immediately curious. Being that my hair is very fine, I have to be careful of the type of products I use. Anything too heavy will turn my head into a oil slick. It doesn't look so cute. I'm the type that leads more towards cream products, so making sure they're lightweight is a must. I tested both of these products out at 2 separate times. They both helped smooth out my hair without being to heavy. Last night, we finally had a product knowledge class to inform us on all the benefits these products have to offer. 

Repair

Repair is great for those highlighted, superfine blondes and those who are addicted to the styling tools. Over time, highlighting and heat-styling can put a lot of wear and tear on someone's hair. Repair is a featherlight leave-in conditioner that seals split ends while protects against further breakage. It works as a heat and UV protector by creating an outer protective layer on the hairs surface, also protecting your color

All-style

All-style is great for those with healthy hair. It can even be used on fine hair that tends to get a little oily. The product contains powders to keep hair clean and oil free, while giving it the moisture and protection it needs. It makes the hair more manageable and effortless to blowdry by fighting frizz and  flyways. The lightweight feel allows a styled blowdry to hold its shape without being weighed down.

This product also contains the heat and UV protection to benefit the hair even more.

Both of these products have great benefits. You can never go wrong with Bumble and Bumble.

Homemade Apple Pie

What's more comforting in the fall than warm apple pie? Absolutely nothing. If you have a different answer to this, I question your sanity. My baking really picks back up in the fall when the colder weather comes around. It's not so fun working in front of a hot oven in the summer. That's when I like to be outside and enjoy the sun while I can. Now, it's all about staying inside and cozying up with my favorite comfort foods. 

My big thing is making food with love. I don't like to take any shortcuts. If you really put your heart into whatever your making, it shows through the dish. I do whatever I can to make everything from scratch and try to use all organic, good quality products. Great ingredients will always produce better results. 

My pie crust is made with 3 simple ingredients. Cream cheese, flour, and butter. My grandma gave me this recipe years ago. It was nice to see a pie crust that didn't require any Crisco (vegetable shortening). It's just something I rather not use. 

My pie filling was made with apples from this years apple picking trip. I used a combination of all the different apples I took home. I find that the more combinations you use, the better it is. Theres a different, sweet flavor in every bite. 

This apple pie has been eaten for breakfast, lunch and dinner the past 2 days. As soon as it's finished I'll definitely be making another one. 

Pie Crust  

1 stick of butter 

4 oz of cream cheese 

1 cup of flour 

1 Egg (for egg wash) 

Pinch of Sugar

Pie Filling

6-9 Apples of  your choice 

2 Tablespoons of Brown Sugar 

2 Tablespoons of Cinnamon 

1/4 Cup of flour 

3/4 Cup of Sugar 

Pie Crust

1. Place your flour on a clean board. Take the butter and cream cheese and cut into cubes. Place on top of the pile of flour. 

2. Take a clean butter knife and chop the butter and cream cheese while combing in into the flour until it resembles a crumbly texture. 

3. With your hands, form the crumbly mixture into a dough like ball. Do not incorporate to much, this way we get a flakey crust. Smooth out any parts that are still dry with flour. 

4. Place the dough ball in plastic wrap and place in the refrigerator for 30 minutes. 

Pie Filling

1. Peel apples and cut into chunks. 

2. Place the apple chunks into a large bowl. Add in cinnamon, brown sugar, sugar, and flour . 

3. Work the mixture together with your hands to make sure it is all incorporated evenly.

4. Place into pie dish of your choice. 

5. When the pie crust is ready, roll out until it is large enough to cover the top of the pie dish and hanging over the edges a little bit. While rolling out, add flour as needed so the dough does not stick and tear. 

6. Beat the egg in a small bowl. With a brush, dip in the egg wash and lightly coat the top of the dough. Take a pinch of sugar and dust it over the top of the crust. This will create that golden shine while it is baking.  

7. Cut a few slits in the top for ventilation 

8. Place in a 350 degree oven for one hour. When the pie is done, let it set for 20 minutes. 

9. Enjoy! 

Making apple pie is so much fun and can be easy to do. I love to have it with a side of vanilla ice cream and pour some homemade caramel over the top. It gets me through the cold nights and makes them a little bit more bearable. 

New Product Review

When you work in a salon, it almost drives you nuts with all the different products you have to choose from. Everyday I stand there debating which one I'm going to use. When your an indecisive person like I am, this is no easy task. I try and stick to a few key favorite products, that way I'm not procrastinating. However, sometimes I like to venture out and try something new. Being someone who has fine, short hair, I am always looking for more ways to thicken it up. A little over a year ago, a Kerastase product called INITIALISTE was introduced. Before trying it, I waited a while to see what the reviews and results were from consumers. After getting an abundance of positive feed back and earning the award for Product of the Year, I've finally decided its time to add into my at home ritual. 

Here's the breakdown of INITIALISTE. It is a serum that comes in a glass bottle with a handy little applicator. Being that it is to encourage hair strength and growth, it is applied right onto the scalp after you wash your hair. After continuing usage, your hair becomes healthier and stronger, protecting it from breakage. It also encourages growth and thickness. This is especially great for women with fine hair, those suffering from hair loss and women who get highlights. 

Statistics 

9 out of 10 women showed results after 1 week 

89% saw more shine

87% felt more thickness 

86% felt their hair was stronger and softer 

Since I have been using this products for only a few days, I have yet to see the results. After the feedback I've gotten  by consumers and the high ratings of this product, I am so excited to see what this will do for my hair. Every few weeks, I will track my progress and review this based on my opinions from  personal experience. Wish me luck!

Surviving the Cold

Great hair day weather is so hard to come by. There has to be no wind, no humidity, and between 55 to 70 degrees outside. Unless you live in California, this isn't happening very often. At the moment in New York, we can feel the temperature making that dramatic shift and dropping down into sweater weather zone. As much as I love sweaters and boots, I don't love the fact that my hair is static electricity central. As soon as I put my coat on or sweatshirt over my head, my hair sticks out like I'm a porcupine. The lack of moisture in the air doesn't help either. It's brittle hair for days. Unless I really take care of it, breakage and dryness takes over. I try to avoid all of these unpleasant situations as much as I can by having a solid hair regime at home. With the right products and steps taken, you can  keep your hair healthy and manageable during the cold seasons. 

1. Lay off on the shampoo 

                    I'm not saying to never wash your hair or take a shower. Just cut it back to 2-3 times a week and use a shower cap. Washing almost every day strips your hair of its natural oils, causing it to dry out. Our scalp secretes oils for a reason, They are our bodies natural moisturizers. On days you feel a little oily, opt for a dry shampoo. It will soak up the oils and incorporate volume back into your hair. What I like to do is use some dry shampoo on the day that I've washed my hair. This way the oils are soaked up right away and I can wait a little longer between washings. Some great dry shampoos are Pret-a-Powder by Bumble and Bumble and Dry Clean Only by Sebastian. 

2. Deep condition 

                     This is such an underestimated, overlooked task. Deep conditioning really makes a huge difference and doesn't take that long. I have a lot of clients that say they just don't have the time for that one extra task. Deep conditioning can be done in ten minutes while your taking a shower. As soon as you get in, wash you hair and the apply your deep conditioner. By the time your done with your shower, it will be time to rinse it out. My favorite way to deep condition my hair is overnight. I wash my hair right before bed, towel dry very well and apply my deep conditioner. When I wake up in the morning, I rinse it out and continue my usual styling. It's that simple. Some of the conditioners I like to use are Creme de Cocoa and Quenching by Bumble and Bumble. These are for more thicker hair. If you prefer something lightweight, Masque Force Architecte by Kerastase is moisturizing without being heavy. It is also great for women who highlight due to the reparative properties.  

3. Use post-shower products

                       It's common to think all you need is a good shampoo and conditioner to keep your hair manageable. These products are just the first step. Using products after you wash your hair is also important. It's the final step to de-frizz and tame down. 

               

                  For straight or wavy hair- An oil or leave-in conditioner is great. An oil will seal all the fly ways down while the leave-in conditioner provides extra moisture. These products can be used together for hair that is especially unruly. My favorite oil is the Elixir Ultime by Kerastase, which has also won the award for Best Of Beauty by Allure Magazine. My choice for leave in conditioner is the Nectar Thermique by Kerastase. If you prefer something light, Ciment Thirmique by Kerastase is also a great choice. 

                    For curly hair -  Bumble and Bumble has an awesome line just for curly hair. From shampoo to mousse, they have it. Curls get especially dry in the winter due to the natural oils not being able to travel down the coils of our hair. When I say our, I am speaking from experience. My hair is a curly mess so I understand the struggles. My favorite product to use is the curl cream. It holds curl while adding extra moisture. They have the cream for both fine hair and coarse hair to give you a variety of options. 

Following these simple steps are easy ways to keep your hair manageable during the upcoming seasons. Good luck and stay warm!

Easy Homemade Caramel

Finally, the crisp fall weather is here. I have this weird thing where I can't make any fall related foods unless the weather is in tune with it. I don't want to eat an apple or pumpkin pie when its over 70 degrees, it just doesn't feel right to me. Even though caramel isn't only meant for fall, it still falls in the category of what I think fall foods contain. Caramel is one of those indulgences you cant get enough of. I can easily eat a whole jar by itself and still want more. When I took a dessert class at Sur La Table back in January, caramel was one of the topping I learned to make. Being someone who likes to play in the kitchen, I took the recipe home and moved around some measurements and ingredients. I like to try and figure out ways to make original recipes better and put my own spin on things. After tweaking things a bit, it finally came out with the perfect caramel sauce thats quick to make when i'm craving a sweet topping. 

Caramel Sauce

6 Tablespoons of Granulated Sugar 

2 Tablespoons of Water

1 1/2 Tablespoons of Salted Butter 

1/4 cup of Heavy Cream 

Place a saucepan onto the stove. Combine the sugar and water together and turn the flame on medium high. Watch until the sugar and water starts to boil. When you see the mixture bubbling, swirl the pan occasionally until it turns a deep amber color. Once it turns deep amber, remove the pan from heat 

and whisk in butter. After butter is incorporated, whisk in heavy cream. Transfer the caramel to a non-plastic container and cool to room temperature. The caramel will last in the fridge up to 2 weeks.

If more is needed you can always double or triple the recipe. I hope you enjoy this caramel as much as I do. I warn you, it's very addicting.

Turning over from the dark side

As a professional, it's my job to tell you what is realistic about your expectations for your hair. Even though we want instant gratification when we want to make a drastic change, it doesn't work out that way. Making a big change doesn't always take a two hour appointment in a salon and then you are set for the next few months. Most clients think all it takes is to throw on some color onto what you previously had. Trust me, I wish my job was that easy. Every now and then, I get that client. She's that client who has been coloring her hair black for 3 years and then expects me to make her a sun-kissed blonde within an hour. No, that's not how it goes. It's a process, a time consuming process that you should be prepared for. 

1. Color does NOT remove color

                   Many clients think that after they have been coloring their hair dark, all it takes is to throw on a tube of the desired color they have been hoping for. This is not the way to do it. Color does not remove and lift already colored hair. The colored part of the hair must be treated with a lightener or bleach in order to remove. 

2. You have buildup

                    Having dark hair for a consecutive amount of time probably means you have a significant amount of color buildup. When the color is dense like that, it can be time consuming to break up all of the buildup with a lightener. Sometimes it takes 15 minutes before the color even looks like its starting to budge. When it finally starts to budge, the colorist has to make sure the color is lifting out evenly. This will ensure that there will be no bands and unevenness in the process. 

3. Your hair WILL pull up red or orange 
                    I understand that we all hate red or any other warm tones in our hair and expect to go lighter without the visibility of any of these colors. I really wish I could do that for you but, unfortunately, I don't have the power to reinvent the color wheel. Each level of color contains an underlying pigment. Anything from medium brown to black has an underlying pigment of red. Anything from light brown to blonde is red-orange, orange or yellow. When lifting a client who has dark brown hair, the red underlying pigment will be exposed and it will go through each color phase until to desired lightness is achieved.   


4. It can be damaging and drying 
                   Going from dark to light shouldn't always be done in just one appointment. Putting bleach/lightener on someones hair and stripping the color out can be very damaging. It can weaken the hair, causing breakage and severe dryness. Doing it gradually will ensure that your hair is kept in good health.

Going from dark to light should always be a gradual process. You may not get the results you were hoping for right away, but it will ensure that your hair stays healthy through the process. 

                    

                 

                  

Leave It To The Professionals

I got this great picture from Behindthechair.com

Admit it. You've all done it. You try to save a few bucks, go to your local drugstore and go to the DIY hair color isle. You pick out whatever shade you see on the box and actually have the idea in your mind that your color is going to come out that glamorous, while making a mess of yourself in your own bathroom. After you realize your not the Picasso of hair, you come to me to fix the situation that you should of never gotten into in the first place. That few bucks you were trying to save has gone totally out the window considering the price I'm about to charge you. In reality, you should be my favorite client since I give you my highest price points. Color-correcting box color isn't something so light on the pockets. It takes time, extra product and extra steps to fix the mess you have created. If you want to save your money and your hair, I suggest you listen to these reasons carefully on why not to do box color. 

1. You don't have eyes in the back of your head 

                I'm going to make the first one very obvious. There is no way you can be neat and organized coloring the own back if your head. You can't see it. This causes spotty sections and inconsistencies  throughout the hair, meaning uneven color. Not possible. 

2. Your hair gets Brittle as ever

                 Box color has an ammonia content that's through the roof. Companies who create box color have to make the color strong enough for all types of hair so the color can actually penetrate. A person who has fine, delicate hair should not be using the same type of color as someone who has thick, coarse hair. The ammonia content makes the color harsh and extremely drying to all types of hair. 

3. Permanent color should not be everywhere 

                  The first instinct most people have is to take the color out of the box and throw it on from roots to ends. This is not the way it should be done. Unless your hair is virgin all over, there is no reason to pull permanent color through your ends. The volume developer mixed in box color is way to high to be pulled through hair that has already been colored. It can go one or two ways. It can blow the hair cuticle open, causing the color to fade even faster or it can cause excessive color buildup, making it a huge challenge to remove in case you ever want to go lighter. 

4. Doesn't look so pretty 

                   Box color doesn't have much flexibility in its tones. The color is very dense and usually leaves the hair matte and solid looking instead of shiny and vibrant. 

5. Hot roots 

                Ever box color your hair and find your roots come out too bright? This is called hot roots. Hot roots happen when the heat from your scalp effects how the color processes and causes the root area to get lighter than the midshaft and ends. Box color doesn't have the ability to prevent this on everyone. The formula that comes in the package is the only formula you get. A professional colorist knows how's to tweak their formulation to prevent this from happening.   

 So, hopefully these are reasons enough to leave it to the proffesionals. If not, I'm sure I'll be fixing your mistakes somewhere in the near future. 

                 

Fixing It Up

Color corrections. Aka what happens when you use box dye or when your hair becomes so overly highlighted, it looks like one solid color and is on the verge of breaking off. Not a good look. My client came into me today in desperate need for some TLC on her hair. After she sat in my chair and I took one look at what she had going on, I knew it wouldn't be an easy task to take her to a healthy blonde. For about three years, she has had heavy highlights constantly being pulled through, which eventually gave her the illusion of a double process blonde. The previous time her roots were touched up, she used box color at home and tried to touch up her roots herself. Now, I know we all think we can play hair at home and get salon quality results in our own bathroom without stepping foot in a salon. It's not realistic. I get countless amounts of color corrections from women using box dye at home. When they realize they have an issue, they finally come to the professionals to fix their situation. When my client tried to lighten her roots herself, she was left with a brassy-orange band around her hair. So all together, I was looking at a head of hair with about an inch and a half of level 5 (medium brown) regrowth, a brassy-orange band, and bleach blonde ends. 

Her request was to stay as blonde as she can, while having some of her natural base color coming through. I'm a colorist who likes to work with my clients requests instead of shutting them down and saying "that won't work so I'm going to do something else". If I think something would suit my client better, I simply suggest something different in a polite way. I explained to my client that bringing her natural base color down through her white blonde highlights would be to much contrast due to her base color being as dark as it was. Then, she requested if I could give her a heavy highlight just to touch up the roots. I again explained that just heavy highlighting her hair wouldn't cover up the band and she wouldn't get to the more natural look she was trying to achieve. We finally came to an agreement on what was realistic for her and her hair. 

My approach for this client was to take low lights a few levels lighter then her base color and alternate them with highlights. To cover the majority of the band, I brought the highlight product down through the brassy orange to break it up. The band was broken up even more when I alternated with the low light product, deepening to the hair to one even tone. 

After my client was done processing, she was brought to the sink to be washed out. In some cases, when hair is dry and porous, it will soak up anything in its path. During the rinsing out process, the blonde ends that were previously over processed caught the deep low light color so quick, it had turned it to a mucky ash grey. Luckily, I knew how to give this a quick fix. Using a special clarifying wash, I simply ran it through the ends of her hair for one minute and it took them to a beautiful golden blonde. It came up as the perfect shade I needed. All that was left to do was tone her roots and any orange that was leftover. The results were fabulous.

My client walked in today as an over processed blonde and walked out as a golden blonde with just the right amount of dimension. Remember, box color is never a good idea.   

Happy Fall Everyone!

Happy Fall everyone! I thought I would kick off the first day with my favorite nail color of the season by Essie called "Material Girl". I figured I'd start small before getting out of hand. I'm already planning all my fall activities and trying to figure out when it is acceptable to start carving pumpkins. I am also the official decorator of Halloween in my house, meaning my parents will not touch any of the decorations until I do. There also will be plenty of Apple and Chicken Pot Pies in the making for comfort food season. It's just beginning and I am super excited!

Current Favorite Products

In my perspective, finding hair products that I love is like finding gold. We all have those cabinets in our bathroom filled with a cemetery of hair mouses, shampoos, conditioners etc. that will never see the light of day again. It's hard to find that holy product we reach for every day and can't live without.  When we finally find a product that works for us, it's like an opening to the hair heavens. My current obsession is the Hairdressers Invisible Oil line by Bumble and Bumble. Not only is it sulfate free, it contains 6 different oils that are lightweight, so it won't weigh down hair that has a finer texture. I am very proud to say that the Oil itself received an award from Allure for Best Beauty Product. This fabulous line contains Shampoo, Conditioner, Heat/UV Protective Primer and an Oil. They all work together providing moisture and shine for healthy, color treated hair. 

1. Hairdressers Invisible Oil Shampoo 

                 If you have color in your hair, there's only 2 words you need to know for this shampoo. SULFATE FREE. I beg everyone, please stop using harsh shampoos on your color treated hair. Your just undoing all the work I put in to keep your color rich and vibrant. Shampoos that contain sulfates will go in and strip your hair, causing your color to oxidize faster. 

2. Hairdressers Invisible Oil Conditioner

                  Even though I am a colorist, I am not a fan of most color safe conditioners. I find them to be too light and doesn't provide beneficial moisture to the hair. But this, this is like dessert for the hair. So rich and creamy. An oil based conditioner that makes your hair feel smooth as silk and still leaves it full of volume. It can even be used as a deep conditioner when left on for ten minutes. It's such a great, everyday product. 

3. Hairdressers Invisible Oil Heat/UV Protective Primer 

                  This is the product that I can't get enough of. I use it everday on damp hair before I blowdry, curl and even let my hair dry in its natural form. When using heat on your hair, a heat protectant is crucial. That extra layer of protection over your hair will help prevent damage and dryness from heat. What's great about this product also is that it is a UV protectant. Basically sunscreen for the hair. The sun can be very harsh on your hair causing dryness and oxidation for anybody who is color treated. This primer is great for protecting against sun damage. 

3. Hairdressers Invisible Oil

                   A featherlight oil that's melts into the hair, still leaving it full and bouncy. This product tames down frizz and those annoying flyaways that we all can't stand to look at. It is great for detangling and providing sufficient moisture to dry ends. It is a perfect finishing product, creating shine and smoothness. 

My prediction is that everyone in the surrounding areas will be up to their ears in Hairdressers Oil.

I convince everyone that they need in their life and it is the best thing since sliced bread. I wouldn't be so passionate about this line if I didn't have personal experience with it. I've used it on myself and numerous clients to experience how well it works. These are great everyday products that will mosturize your hair, protect its color, and leave it silky smooth. 

Simple ways to get healthy hair

One of the biggest question I get from clients is "how do I keep my hair so healthy"? Well, for one thing, I do work in a hair salon. I have a wide variety of top products available to me whenever I please to use them. Plus, many of my friends are hairdressers. As soon as I'm in need of a haircut, I get one. Even when I don't want it, I'm forced to sit in a chair while scissors are taken to my head against my own will. Being in the industry has given me an abundance if experience in taking care of my hair the proper way. I'm very fortunate to have all of these things available to me. However, you don't need to work in a salon to have healthy hair. All you need is a few key hair products and a solid regime at home to be on the right track for healthy, shiny hair. 

1. The one thing most young girls and women don't want to hear 

              

            GET A HAIRCUT. Yes, I understand you want long hair down to the bottom of your waste and you think getting a haircut once a year is enough to get you by. False. Once those ends start splitting, go to a professional and get them cut off. There are many products out there that claim they
they will repair your split ends and magically put them back together again. Don't fall for the false advertising. When hair splits in half, it continues to split further up as time goes on. When it splits
further up, then your going to have to cut more hair off.  Getting a regular haircut every six weeks
will ensure your hair stays healthy. The more regular trims you get, the less hair you will have to cut off each time. Remember, short healthy hair is better than long, dull, lifeless hair. 

2. If your going to burn it, please protect it 

             When I was younger, I went through a phase from middle school to 11th grade. I had to have my hair straight everyday. I burned and scorched it until there was not one wave or crease to be seen. I thought that was the only way I should ever wear my hair. I wish I could go back in time and yell at myself. I see the same pattern today in mostly young girls. As they reach into their 20's and on, I see it transform into the blow dryer and curling iron. I can't possibly tell women stop to using heat on their hair. I know I never would. It's our only hope to not looking like we have a birds nest growing from our head. When a client tells me they use heat on their hair at home, my first question is "Do you use a heat protectant"? I can't stress enough how important it is. When a heat protectant is applied to your hair, it is adding a layer of moisture over the hairs surface. This way, the heat isn't going directly on the hair and is preventing the hair to become dry and damaged. Two of my favorite heat protectants are Ciment Thermique by Kerastase and Hairdressers Invisible Oil Primer by Bumble and Bumble. Both lightweight and moisturizing, they will ensure your hair is protected. 

3. Products do matter 

              The quality of your hair products actually do matter. I'm not talking about that 5 dollar shampoo you get at your local drugstore. Throw it away, it's not helping. Many drugstore products contain harsh chemicals that can damage your hair, such as sulfates. Sulfates are harsh detergents in shampoos that go into to your hair and can strip it of its moisture and natural oils that your hair needs. This is especially important for those who color their hair. Sulfates cause color to oxidize more rapidly. Opt for a sulfate free shampoo or shampoo that has a low percentage of Sulphates. Read the back of your bottles, the lower it is on the ingredient list, the less your shampoo contains. My favorite sulfate free shampoo the Hairdressers Invisible Oil Shampoo by Bumble and Bumble. It contains six different oils that moisturize your hair but are also light enough to not weigh it down. 

4. Deep conditioning is actually important

                Many times I will hear from clients that they just don't have the time or patience to deep condition their hair. It really doesn't take as much time as women think it does. They have this idea it's this whole big process that takes an hour when it really can all be done in just 10 minutes,1 to 2 times a week. When you put it like that it doesn't sound so stressful. A good way to deep condition your hair is right in the shower. The hot steam from the water will help the conditioner penetrate deeper into your hair while opening up the cuticle. After you're done shampooing, take a towel and blot your hair in the shower, removing all excess water. This will help the conditioner actually stick to your hair and not just slide off from all the water it's holding on to. Apply the product thoroughly and put your hair in a bun while you finish everything else you need to do. By the time you wash your body, shave, etc. 10 minutes has passed and It will be time to rinse out your deep conditioner. Two of my favorite deep conditioners are Creme De Cico by Bumble and Bumble and Masqueintense by Kerastase.

Taking care of your hair doesn't take much.  Solid regime at home can make all the difference. Healthy, long, shiny hair is possible, you just need to actually take care of it. 

  

Color Fun

                                                              

                                                                                             

                   

          I love it when clients like to have a little fun with their colors. It gives me room to play and really brings out my creativity. Katherine is someone who is open to anything and has been every color under the sun. She showed me a picture of an intense red ombré with blonde ends and said she wanted a less dramatic version of the picture. I did everything in a 3 step process. First, I took all the Peices I was planning to balayage and covered them with foil. When all the Peices where covered, I colored the remainder of the hair with my red formula. Then, I pulled out all of the foils and balayaged everything that was left, feathering up the product so there were no harsh lines. When everything was done processing, I gave her a gloss at the sink, creating the copper red tone on her ends. The outcome was phenomenal. Katherine had a gorgeous deep red coming from her roots that gradually faded into a vibrant copper. Lately, I've been encouraging more of my clients to step outside of the box with their hair color. Whether your hair is red, purple or blue, it can still look classy and sophisticated. Have fun with it and expand your imagination!

Making Changes

Connecting with people on a day-to-day basis is all part of what I do. If you're a hairdresser that claims you're not a people person, then you are in the wrong business my friend. Dealing with people is all part of the Job. You have to please their every want and need and stay smiling throughout the whole process, even if they're unpleasantly demanding. However, sometimes you get lucky. There are those clients that are such a joy to have in your chair, you are thankful that human interaction is the main part of your career. Today I had one of those clients. Usually by the end of the day I'm exhausted and I'm just one client away from going home and going to bed. As I walked up to Nicole, she immediately greeted me with a smile that went along with her bubbly personality. She was humorous and excited for whatever change she was about to make. Nicole had explained to me that she was starting a new career after resigning from her previous job. It was clear a hair transformation was needed. Up until about two years ago, she was a double process, bleach blonde. Realizing that it was way too drastic for her, she went back to being a brunette. After having her natural color for two years, she was missing her blonde locks she once had. We both agreed that a double process, bleach blonde was not the direction we wanted to go in. I gave her a heavy natural highlight that still allowed her see a significant difference. Nicole was finally blonde again from root to tips. My day was a success after seeing how grateful she was and I'm already looking forward to our next visit. 

A Crafty Girls Haven

                    

               I came upon an amazing discovery yesterday. A.I. Friedmans. That place is dangerous for someone like me. This was like an Arts and Crafts store on steroids. I went in and planned to spend  only $2 on some build-it-yourself boxes. Somehow along the way $2 turned into $60. It's one of those places where you want to buy everything so I had to give myself a little talk and force myself out. Out of everything I bought, these we're my favorite items, they were just screaming my name. A little calendar book and an iPad carrier. I'm a simple person, so it doesn't take to much to make me happy. I will gravitate towards anything pink, and the fact it had something to do with cupcakes was the icing on the cake.