Leave It To The Professionals

I got this great picture from Behindthechair.com

Admit it. You've all done it. You try to save a few bucks, go to your local drugstore and go to the DIY hair color isle. You pick out whatever shade you see on the box and actually have the idea in your mind that your color is going to come out that glamorous, while making a mess of yourself in your own bathroom. After you realize your not the Picasso of hair, you come to me to fix the situation that you should of never gotten into in the first place. That few bucks you were trying to save has gone totally out the window considering the price I'm about to charge you. In reality, you should be my favorite client since I give you my highest price points. Color-correcting box color isn't something so light on the pockets. It takes time, extra product and extra steps to fix the mess you have created. If you want to save your money and your hair, I suggest you listen to these reasons carefully on why not to do box color. 

1. You don't have eyes in the back of your head 

                I'm going to make the first one very obvious. There is no way you can be neat and organized coloring the own back if your head. You can't see it. This causes spotty sections and inconsistencies  throughout the hair, meaning uneven color. Not possible. 

2. Your hair gets Brittle as ever

                 Box color has an ammonia content that's through the roof. Companies who create box color have to make the color strong enough for all types of hair so the color can actually penetrate. A person who has fine, delicate hair should not be using the same type of color as someone who has thick, coarse hair. The ammonia content makes the color harsh and extremely drying to all types of hair. 

3. Permanent color should not be everywhere 

                  The first instinct most people have is to take the color out of the box and throw it on from roots to ends. This is not the way it should be done. Unless your hair is virgin all over, there is no reason to pull permanent color through your ends. The volume developer mixed in box color is way to high to be pulled through hair that has already been colored. It can go one or two ways. It can blow the hair cuticle open, causing the color to fade even faster or it can cause excessive color buildup, making it a huge challenge to remove in case you ever want to go lighter. 

4. Doesn't look so pretty 

                   Box color doesn't have much flexibility in its tones. The color is very dense and usually leaves the hair matte and solid looking instead of shiny and vibrant. 

5. Hot roots 

                Ever box color your hair and find your roots come out too bright? This is called hot roots. Hot roots happen when the heat from your scalp effects how the color processes and causes the root area to get lighter than the midshaft and ends. Box color doesn't have the ability to prevent this on everyone. The formula that comes in the package is the only formula you get. A professional colorist knows how's to tweak their formulation to prevent this from happening.   

 So, hopefully these are reasons enough to leave it to the proffesionals. If not, I'm sure I'll be fixing your mistakes somewhere in the near future. 

                 

Fixing It Up

Color corrections. Aka what happens when you use box dye or when your hair becomes so overly highlighted, it looks like one solid color and is on the verge of breaking off. Not a good look. My client came into me today in desperate need for some TLC on her hair. After she sat in my chair and I took one look at what she had going on, I knew it wouldn't be an easy task to take her to a healthy blonde. For about three years, she has had heavy highlights constantly being pulled through, which eventually gave her the illusion of a double process blonde. The previous time her roots were touched up, she used box color at home and tried to touch up her roots herself. Now, I know we all think we can play hair at home and get salon quality results in our own bathroom without stepping foot in a salon. It's not realistic. I get countless amounts of color corrections from women using box dye at home. When they realize they have an issue, they finally come to the professionals to fix their situation. When my client tried to lighten her roots herself, she was left with a brassy-orange band around her hair. So all together, I was looking at a head of hair with about an inch and a half of level 5 (medium brown) regrowth, a brassy-orange band, and bleach blonde ends. 

Her request was to stay as blonde as she can, while having some of her natural base color coming through. I'm a colorist who likes to work with my clients requests instead of shutting them down and saying "that won't work so I'm going to do something else". If I think something would suit my client better, I simply suggest something different in a polite way. I explained to my client that bringing her natural base color down through her white blonde highlights would be to much contrast due to her base color being as dark as it was. Then, she requested if I could give her a heavy highlight just to touch up the roots. I again explained that just heavy highlighting her hair wouldn't cover up the band and she wouldn't get to the more natural look she was trying to achieve. We finally came to an agreement on what was realistic for her and her hair. 

My approach for this client was to take low lights a few levels lighter then her base color and alternate them with highlights. To cover the majority of the band, I brought the highlight product down through the brassy orange to break it up. The band was broken up even more when I alternated with the low light product, deepening to the hair to one even tone. 

After my client was done processing, she was brought to the sink to be washed out. In some cases, when hair is dry and porous, it will soak up anything in its path. During the rinsing out process, the blonde ends that were previously over processed caught the deep low light color so quick, it had turned it to a mucky ash grey. Luckily, I knew how to give this a quick fix. Using a special clarifying wash, I simply ran it through the ends of her hair for one minute and it took them to a beautiful golden blonde. It came up as the perfect shade I needed. All that was left to do was tone her roots and any orange that was leftover. The results were fabulous.

My client walked in today as an over processed blonde and walked out as a golden blonde with just the right amount of dimension. Remember, box color is never a good idea.   

Happy Fall Everyone!

Happy Fall everyone! I thought I would kick off the first day with my favorite nail color of the season by Essie called "Material Girl". I figured I'd start small before getting out of hand. I'm already planning all my fall activities and trying to figure out when it is acceptable to start carving pumpkins. I am also the official decorator of Halloween in my house, meaning my parents will not touch any of the decorations until I do. There also will be plenty of Apple and Chicken Pot Pies in the making for comfort food season. It's just beginning and I am super excited!

Current Favorite Products

In my perspective, finding hair products that I love is like finding gold. We all have those cabinets in our bathroom filled with a cemetery of hair mouses, shampoos, conditioners etc. that will never see the light of day again. It's hard to find that holy product we reach for every day and can't live without.  When we finally find a product that works for us, it's like an opening to the hair heavens. My current obsession is the Hairdressers Invisible Oil line by Bumble and Bumble. Not only is it sulfate free, it contains 6 different oils that are lightweight, so it won't weigh down hair that has a finer texture. I am very proud to say that the Oil itself received an award from Allure for Best Beauty Product. This fabulous line contains Shampoo, Conditioner, Heat/UV Protective Primer and an Oil. They all work together providing moisture and shine for healthy, color treated hair. 

1. Hairdressers Invisible Oil Shampoo 

                 If you have color in your hair, there's only 2 words you need to know for this shampoo. SULFATE FREE. I beg everyone, please stop using harsh shampoos on your color treated hair. Your just undoing all the work I put in to keep your color rich and vibrant. Shampoos that contain sulfates will go in and strip your hair, causing your color to oxidize faster. 

2. Hairdressers Invisible Oil Conditioner

                  Even though I am a colorist, I am not a fan of most color safe conditioners. I find them to be too light and doesn't provide beneficial moisture to the hair. But this, this is like dessert for the hair. So rich and creamy. An oil based conditioner that makes your hair feel smooth as silk and still leaves it full of volume. It can even be used as a deep conditioner when left on for ten minutes. It's such a great, everyday product. 

3. Hairdressers Invisible Oil Heat/UV Protective Primer 

                  This is the product that I can't get enough of. I use it everday on damp hair before I blowdry, curl and even let my hair dry in its natural form. When using heat on your hair, a heat protectant is crucial. That extra layer of protection over your hair will help prevent damage and dryness from heat. What's great about this product also is that it is a UV protectant. Basically sunscreen for the hair. The sun can be very harsh on your hair causing dryness and oxidation for anybody who is color treated. This primer is great for protecting against sun damage. 

3. Hairdressers Invisible Oil

                   A featherlight oil that's melts into the hair, still leaving it full and bouncy. This product tames down frizz and those annoying flyaways that we all can't stand to look at. It is great for detangling and providing sufficient moisture to dry ends. It is a perfect finishing product, creating shine and smoothness. 

My prediction is that everyone in the surrounding areas will be up to their ears in Hairdressers Oil.

I convince everyone that they need in their life and it is the best thing since sliced bread. I wouldn't be so passionate about this line if I didn't have personal experience with it. I've used it on myself and numerous clients to experience how well it works. These are great everyday products that will mosturize your hair, protect its color, and leave it silky smooth. 

Simple ways to get healthy hair

One of the biggest question I get from clients is "how do I keep my hair so healthy"? Well, for one thing, I do work in a hair salon. I have a wide variety of top products available to me whenever I please to use them. Plus, many of my friends are hairdressers. As soon as I'm in need of a haircut, I get one. Even when I don't want it, I'm forced to sit in a chair while scissors are taken to my head against my own will. Being in the industry has given me an abundance if experience in taking care of my hair the proper way. I'm very fortunate to have all of these things available to me. However, you don't need to work in a salon to have healthy hair. All you need is a few key hair products and a solid regime at home to be on the right track for healthy, shiny hair. 

1. The one thing most young girls and women don't want to hear 

              

            GET A HAIRCUT. Yes, I understand you want long hair down to the bottom of your waste and you think getting a haircut once a year is enough to get you by. False. Once those ends start splitting, go to a professional and get them cut off. There are many products out there that claim they
they will repair your split ends and magically put them back together again. Don't fall for the false advertising. When hair splits in half, it continues to split further up as time goes on. When it splits
further up, then your going to have to cut more hair off.  Getting a regular haircut every six weeks
will ensure your hair stays healthy. The more regular trims you get, the less hair you will have to cut off each time. Remember, short healthy hair is better than long, dull, lifeless hair. 

2. If your going to burn it, please protect it 

             When I was younger, I went through a phase from middle school to 11th grade. I had to have my hair straight everyday. I burned and scorched it until there was not one wave or crease to be seen. I thought that was the only way I should ever wear my hair. I wish I could go back in time and yell at myself. I see the same pattern today in mostly young girls. As they reach into their 20's and on, I see it transform into the blow dryer and curling iron. I can't possibly tell women stop to using heat on their hair. I know I never would. It's our only hope to not looking like we have a birds nest growing from our head. When a client tells me they use heat on their hair at home, my first question is "Do you use a heat protectant"? I can't stress enough how important it is. When a heat protectant is applied to your hair, it is adding a layer of moisture over the hairs surface. This way, the heat isn't going directly on the hair and is preventing the hair to become dry and damaged. Two of my favorite heat protectants are Ciment Thermique by Kerastase and Hairdressers Invisible Oil Primer by Bumble and Bumble. Both lightweight and moisturizing, they will ensure your hair is protected. 

3. Products do matter 

              The quality of your hair products actually do matter. I'm not talking about that 5 dollar shampoo you get at your local drugstore. Throw it away, it's not helping. Many drugstore products contain harsh chemicals that can damage your hair, such as sulfates. Sulfates are harsh detergents in shampoos that go into to your hair and can strip it of its moisture and natural oils that your hair needs. This is especially important for those who color their hair. Sulfates cause color to oxidize more rapidly. Opt for a sulfate free shampoo or shampoo that has a low percentage of Sulphates. Read the back of your bottles, the lower it is on the ingredient list, the less your shampoo contains. My favorite sulfate free shampoo the Hairdressers Invisible Oil Shampoo by Bumble and Bumble. It contains six different oils that moisturize your hair but are also light enough to not weigh it down. 

4. Deep conditioning is actually important

                Many times I will hear from clients that they just don't have the time or patience to deep condition their hair. It really doesn't take as much time as women think it does. They have this idea it's this whole big process that takes an hour when it really can all be done in just 10 minutes,1 to 2 times a week. When you put it like that it doesn't sound so stressful. A good way to deep condition your hair is right in the shower. The hot steam from the water will help the conditioner penetrate deeper into your hair while opening up the cuticle. After you're done shampooing, take a towel and blot your hair in the shower, removing all excess water. This will help the conditioner actually stick to your hair and not just slide off from all the water it's holding on to. Apply the product thoroughly and put your hair in a bun while you finish everything else you need to do. By the time you wash your body, shave, etc. 10 minutes has passed and It will be time to rinse out your deep conditioner. Two of my favorite deep conditioners are Creme De Cico by Bumble and Bumble and Masqueintense by Kerastase.

Taking care of your hair doesn't take much.  Solid regime at home can make all the difference. Healthy, long, shiny hair is possible, you just need to actually take care of it. 

  

Color Fun

                                                              

                                                                                             

                   

          I love it when clients like to have a little fun with their colors. It gives me room to play and really brings out my creativity. Katherine is someone who is open to anything and has been every color under the sun. She showed me a picture of an intense red ombré with blonde ends and said she wanted a less dramatic version of the picture. I did everything in a 3 step process. First, I took all the Peices I was planning to balayage and covered them with foil. When all the Peices where covered, I colored the remainder of the hair with my red formula. Then, I pulled out all of the foils and balayaged everything that was left, feathering up the product so there were no harsh lines. When everything was done processing, I gave her a gloss at the sink, creating the copper red tone on her ends. The outcome was phenomenal. Katherine had a gorgeous deep red coming from her roots that gradually faded into a vibrant copper. Lately, I've been encouraging more of my clients to step outside of the box with their hair color. Whether your hair is red, purple or blue, it can still look classy and sophisticated. Have fun with it and expand your imagination!

Making Changes

Connecting with people on a day-to-day basis is all part of what I do. If you're a hairdresser that claims you're not a people person, then you are in the wrong business my friend. Dealing with people is all part of the Job. You have to please their every want and need and stay smiling throughout the whole process, even if they're unpleasantly demanding. However, sometimes you get lucky. There are those clients that are such a joy to have in your chair, you are thankful that human interaction is the main part of your career. Today I had one of those clients. Usually by the end of the day I'm exhausted and I'm just one client away from going home and going to bed. As I walked up to Nicole, she immediately greeted me with a smile that went along with her bubbly personality. She was humorous and excited for whatever change she was about to make. Nicole had explained to me that she was starting a new career after resigning from her previous job. It was clear a hair transformation was needed. Up until about two years ago, she was a double process, bleach blonde. Realizing that it was way too drastic for her, she went back to being a brunette. After having her natural color for two years, she was missing her blonde locks she once had. We both agreed that a double process, bleach blonde was not the direction we wanted to go in. I gave her a heavy natural highlight that still allowed her see a significant difference. Nicole was finally blonde again from root to tips. My day was a success after seeing how grateful she was and I'm already looking forward to our next visit. 

A Crafty Girls Haven

                    

               I came upon an amazing discovery yesterday. A.I. Friedmans. That place is dangerous for someone like me. This was like an Arts and Crafts store on steroids. I went in and planned to spend  only $2 on some build-it-yourself boxes. Somehow along the way $2 turned into $60. It's one of those places where you want to buy everything so I had to give myself a little talk and force myself out. Out of everything I bought, these we're my favorite items, they were just screaming my name. A little calendar book and an iPad carrier. I'm a simple person, so it doesn't take to much to make me happy. I will gravitate towards anything pink, and the fact it had something to do with cupcakes was the icing on the cake.

Young and Blonde

                  Ever since I've been working in salons, I've grown to envy any girl under the age 16. They walk in with their Repunzel like hair and I turn green with envy. Hair with shine that most of us can only dream of and tresses down to the lower part of their back. It's just not fair. However, these are also my favorite clients. With hair this great, it's almost effortless to make them look even more fabulous. My young client came in and started to explain that her summer job didn't allow her to be in the sun as much as she used to. Most of her summers are spent outside, which lightens her hair, and gives her that blonde, sun-kissed look. This summer was spent inside, doing paperwork for a company that didn't let her see the light of day. Being so young, I suggested we keep it natural and not dramatic looking. For her, subtle, fine highlights were the way to go. I lightened her up enough to where she felt nice and bright, not platinum. Her natural, gold highlights made her skin glow and eyes pop. After blowing her hair dry, she smiled at me with great satisfaction. She was more than pleased with the results. My client finally felt like her summer-self again.

            Welcome to Cupcakes and Curls! Im a girl born and raised In Westchester, New York. Ever since I was a little girl, I was fascinated with the beauty industry, which has led me on my path to becoming a successful hair colorist. Working at The Beauty Box in Rye, New York, has allowed me to take my creativity and share It with the world. Meeting new people everyday and making them feel beautiful is a joy and I'm happy to put smiles on peoples faces.
     
             Beauty wasn't my only interest growing up. As I grew, so did my sweet tooth. From cupcakes to cookies, I was hooked on all things sweets. As soon as I got old enough to touch the stove and oven, my transformation into Betty Crocker started. In my opinion, feeding others my baked goods is like spreading love in every bite.